Runway Rush- NYFW’11Fall Winter 2011-12
Tadashi Shoji FW '11
From my notes: Deep Teal, Taupe-Gray & Marigold - Relaxed-Constructed Inky Blues. Royal Purple & Metallic - Prim-Elegance. Lace, Pleating & Plumage. Texture, Dimension & Excess. If you can bare the cold bare the shoulder.
About the Designer: Tadashi Shoji was born and raised in Japan. Shoji showed a talent for painting and drawing at an early age. Restricted by the conservative environment of his traditional hometown. He left Sandai for Tokyo, where he pursued studies in fine art and the emerging field of contemporary art. During his studies, Tadashi was recommended for an apprenticeship with the country's leading contemporary artist, Jiro Takamatsu — credited with leading the way for contemporary art in Japan. Read more http://www.saratogatrunk.com/dsnr_tadashi.html
Nicholas K FW'11 Womens & Mens Collection
From my notes: The Fall Winter 2011 Collection for both Women & Men evokes the following: Leather, liquid-velvet, fur-like & wool casual street "Jumper." Layers, textures & muted-rich... Sophisticated-skater. Cable-knit, ruffles & heavy linen. Bohemian-lake home. I loved it, the mixing & layering makes it so easy.
About the Designer: Nicholas K New York City based Men's and Women's Collection Check them on Facebook & http://www.NicholasK.com
Duckie Brown FW'11 Mens Collection
From my notes: Colors are drab, in a warm earthy way, olive, khaki, brick and neutrals. Sophisticated Street Style, Textured, layered and relaxed.
About the Designer: Duckie Brown is a New York-based men's fashion line. It was founded in 2001 by Steven Cox and Daniel Silver. Duckie Brown's mission, “dressing men beautifully," is accomplished through hand tailoring, unique fabrics and bold colors. Duckie Brown was nominated by the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) for its Menswear Designer of the Year award, alongside Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein. Visit http://www.duckiebrown.com/home.html
Christian Siriano FW'11 Womens Collection
From my notes: Aiming for the Uptown Girl. Key colors Neutral-Muaves, Sea Kelp-Green and Black of course. Texture, Sheer and all about the shoe. The shoes are the jewels of the look. Maturity suits his blossoming style, but Siriano has not lost his playfulness.
About the Designer: Christian Siriano began designing at thirteen years of age. He attended the Baltimore school of arts, and studied fashion London where he interned with industry legends Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen. Siriano became the youngest winner on Bravo's "Project Runway." Read more http://www.christianvsiriano.com/
Sally Lapointe FW'11
My notes: Futuristic & Regal, Constructed & Liquid, Conceptually Gaga
About the Designer: "My main objective is to create, and hope like minded people will be moved. My work can be inspired by anything that strikes my attention, but most of the time it is inspired by ideas already in my mind. Conscious of the human body, sophisticated and aggressive, the clothing comes from a place of emotion." says Lapointe. See more from Sally Lapointe http://www.sallylapointe.com/
Silvio Liu FW'11
From my notes: Brian Wood was very gracious to take me through the collection, getting very excited about the details and hardware, you can tell this is his passion. Showing tailored femininity, with gorgeous hammered silk, liquid wools and a tonal jacquard. She has a deviant side, with details of water repellent patent faux leather and nailed in just the right places. I so appreciate his hard work and his time he spent with me on the collection.
About the Designer: Brian Wood a urban menswear designer, collaborated with Danny Liu to create Silvio Liu. Womenswear is a new adventure for the duo. Wood defines his style as "rebel romantic." Each piece is flattering and form-fitting to a women's shape. The clothes signifies sophistication and retro classic glamour. Visit http://www.silvioliu.com/
Farah Angsana FW'11
From my notes: A masquerade of shimmering silks, Jewel tones, glittering glamour and fabulous fur... absolutely delicious.
About the Designer: To those who know the stylish, international designer's work well, this rebirth is a return to the Farah they first met in 1999 when she made her debut in London...a return to haute couture and high-end evening wear for women. To those who are aware of Farah through the daring and elegant menswear she had been creating in the years since she moved to Paris in 2000, it's a next logical step. To Farah herself it represents the opportunity to go back to what originally inspired her to become a designer -- the thrill of blending fantasy and reality together to make women beautiful and glamorous. Reed more http://www.farahangsana.com/node/2
From my notes: High polished sequin, Tip-dyed Furs, jewel-encrusted, asymmetry-celebrated, Oscar Red Carpet worthy.
About the Designer: Born and educated in Europe, Kati Stern is not only an acclaimed fashion designer; she is also a professional architect, a classically trained pianist and a passionate flamenco dancer. After former careers in music and architecture, Hungarian-born designer Kati Stern launched Venexiana in 2003. The highly structured, rock-music-influenced designs are edgy and adventurous: courtesan-style corsets, leather, fur, marabou, laser-cut chiffon and lace, winged leather pants, and textured hose are signatures. Read more http://nymag.com/fashion/fashionshows/designers/bios/venexiana/
From my notes: It is "nautical" yes, but in inspiration, that is the key. Looking past that you see the beautiful wools in solids and plaids, cozy corduroy, jersey and knits. Colors are in inky blue (navy), warm neutrals, and pops of "life jacket-orange." I actually am putting a couple things on my shopping list... so should you.
About the Brand: Founded in 1983, Nautica has evolved from a collection of men's outerwear to a leading global lifestyle brand with products ranging from men's, women's and children's apparel and accessories to a complete home collection. Now part of VF Corporation, a leader in branded quality apparel, Nautica has become one of the most important American lifestyle brands throughout the world.
General Idea FW'11 Mens Collection
From my notes: Last season's collection was military inspired, this fall Winter collection was influenced by the mountains and the rugged aesthetic. I loved it. The durable fabrics in cotton, wool and polyester in rich hues of mustard, red, navy, and beige.
About the Designer: Korean designer Bumsuk Choi (최범석) launched his luxury menswear label, General Idea, in the Spring of 2004. At the time of his launch, Bumsuk was considered the youngest designer who had ever joined the Seoul Collection in the Republic of Korea. Read more http://www.essential-homme.com/?content=articles&category=91&category_name=Focus&article=552&article_name=General%20Idea%20by%20Bumsuk%20Choi
Bespoken FW'11 Mens Collection
From my notes: Beautiful classic tailoring, cold comfort corduroy, tweeds, chunky knits, selvage denim and wrinkled wool. Colors in charcoal, olive, heather, oyster... of course navy and black.
About the Designer: The founders of bespoken include two sets of brothers, who came together through music, having played together in NYC and LA. Recognizing their passion for well made clothing, the Bespoken journey began. Seamlessly blended, tailored clothes with a rock n'roll attitude are what followed. Read more: http://www.bespokenclothiers.com/
Vivienne Tam FW'11
From my notes: Tweeds, wools, silks, knits and crochets. Opulence is evident in the colors of grays, inky blues, blacks, raspberry and garnet. Embellishments of sequins, appliques and fringe... 20s inspiration.
About the Designer: Vivienne Tam has become well known for creating beautiful clothes that appeal to all ages, ethnicities, and income levels. She has earned the reputation for offering a stylish and high-quality product while at the same time inviting the consumer to experience the inspiration behind it. A longstanding dedication to innovation and exotic imagery, Vivienne Tam is truly one of the world's most passionate and symbolic designers in fashion today.
Toni Francesc FW'11
From my notes: Toni Francesc, seemed to have poured liquid gold, copper or pewter on to the model silhouettes, creating a very fluid collection with tailoring that kept it from running all over the place. I have grown quite fond of seeing his creativity morph.
About the Designer: Was born in Badalona, Barcelona, and felt attracted by fashion since he was a child. His mother was dressmaker and he grew up between threads and patterns. He studied fashion design at Instituto de la Moda in Barcelona at eighteen an immediately after he began working in the family business, while in 1992 he created his own brand. Read more http://www.tonifrancesc.com/
Carlos Miele FW'11
From my notes: Fur, silk, liquid velvet. Color palette in four stories, "Sunset'" "Ocean," shimmering precious "metals," "jewel" tones and neutral blush sprinkled throughout . The finally silks appear to have a "pixellated" print.
About the Designer: Born in Sao Paulo, Miele brings Brazil's beautiful handcraft techniques that were slowly being lost and forgotten, to the international runways, creating a connection between two worlds that would normally never cross paths. Always in constant experimentation, he presents a work that questions the convention and formalisms.Read more http://weconnectfashion.com/fido/getexecutive.fcn?&type=execs&searchstring=carlos+Miele&id=737870EM0006280&start=1&scope=findPhrase
Pierre-Henri Mattout FW'11
From my notes: Very "Military Academy" with a nuance of equestrian. Very tailored (strict), clean and functional. Color palette consists of coffee, military green, burgundy, with accents of blues and navy.
About the Designer: Pierre-Henri Mattout was born in Saumur, France. Studied basic design and cutting techniques at a Paris fashion school, but perfected his craft with art history classes at Ecole du Louvre. HIs solid background, experience at Cacharel and Dior Homme and passion to tell his own story of fashion led him to launch his brand at the age of 25. Each new collection is a new chapter of a lifetime story.
Woolrich John Rich & Bros. FW'11
From my notes: Color palette simply navy, gray, charcoal and black of course. The pieces are tailored, yet soft, feminine and comfortable. Cold comfort materials include wool, cashmere, flannel, knit, silk. (Silk is HUGE for the season, especially in a shirt style dress)
About the Designer: Woolrich John Rich & Bros. launches a new Black Label collection for ladies, naming Paula Gerbase as creative Director for the new John Rich & Bros. premium label. Gerbase, Brazilian born, developed her uncompromising eye for quality of fabric and construction and her distinct minimalist aesthetics while at Kilgour. Aside from her capsule collection of Woolrich John Rich & Bros., Gerbase designs her own London based label, 1205.
Nanette Lepore FW'11
From my notes: Celebrates the female silhouette, feminine nuances and explores the edge. Palette is painted from winter-white, oyster, and stone. Featuring aqua and sweet caramel. Shimmers were used as a highlight on shoes, accessories and as slips, keeping metallics understated.
About the Designer: Born in Youngstown, Ohio, Nanette produced her first couture look at the tender age of nine outfitting a neighbor in a floral bedspread, beaded choker and face paint. The girl posed in the family's front yard behind a hand-lettered sign declaring Lepore, and thus began Nanette's lifelong interest in fashion. Read more http://www.nanettelepore.com/about-us/