Runway Rush- NYSS’12

Spring Summer 2012

CANDELA South American Gabriela Perezutti pioneered the bohemian look that was taken from her ranching background in Uruguay. From leathers and chunky knits manufactured in Argentina to cotton voiles, silks, and embroideries produced in India, Candela’s pieces are feminine, without being over the top. Ornamented with occasional bows, ruffles, lace, and creative pops of color, Candela combines wistful, natural looks with fashion-forward city style.
From my notes: The presentation was tropical, not only in look but feel. (The HVAC was not working properly so it was very warm and sticky; the unintentional effect only enhanced my experience) Uruguayan rancher inspired in bright silks, washed leathers and embroidery detailed. Soft pumiced washed military and denim jackets kept it easy. #MBFW #NYFW #SS12 #CANDELA #STYLEHERO

EVE MINGE Eva Minge, also called the “next couture,” is a Polish designer internationally recognized not only for her creative designs but her ability to captivate her market. In Poland she is a contributor to popular television productions and molding the images of celebrities through that venue. She is one of Poland’s most popular and successful designers.
From my notes: The collection conveyed nautical luxury lifestyles for both women and men. Lots of stripes, expertly constructed for a polished look. #MBFW #FWNY #EVAMINGE #SS12 #STYLEHERO

CARLOS MIELE Brazilian born designer, Carlos Miele, is known for his vibrant, colorful, and sexy designs. Over the years he has successfully built his brand and is being recognized as a designer to watch.
From my notes: The deep sea inspired the flowing RTW Spring line. The swirling prints and solids were in radiant orange coral, deep ocean green and brilliant bay blue. #MBFW #NYFW #CARLOSMIELE #SS12 #STYLEHERO

RUFFIAN Designers Brian Wolk and Claude Morais are the designers behind the whimsical and chic label, Ruffian. Beginnings in 2004 with a small collection of necklaces, their modern take on the elegant style of the Victorian era quickly created buzz and has become what is now a popular ready-to-wear brand.
From my notes: This season inspiration their namesake filly “Ruffian.” Exploring the equestrian society. Mimicking the “Jockey” in color blocking and cross-body striping. #MBFW #NYFW #RUFFIAN #SS12 #STYLEHERO

PINK TARTAN One of the most popular and coveted North American fashion brands, belongs to designer Kimberly Newport-Mimran of Pink Tartan. Founded in 2002, Kimberly set out to create a line of wearable and accessible sportswear that is the perfect blend of simple and chic. Pink Tartan counts celebrities such as Vanessa Williams and Kate Hudson as just a few of their loyal followers.
From my notes: French chic with an influence of a “Bond Girl” or two… maybe Pussy Galore, Patricia Fearing or Tatiana Romanova character. Seductive-glam looks. #MBFW #NYFW #PINKTARTAN #SS12 #STYLEHERO

COSTELLO TAGLIAPIETRA Co-founded in 2005, designers Jeffery Costello and Robert Tagliapietra are CDFA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalists and Ecci Dmani Fashion Foundation Award recipients and nominees, respectfully. Their collections are based around muted colors and attention to detail.
From my notes: I love the simplicity of the print on the collection on different materials. The color palette was one of my favorites for Spring-Summer’12. Consisting of Shades of tangerine, turquoise, pine green, lake blue, topaz and saddle. #MBFW #NYFW #COSTELLOTAGLIAPIETR #SS12 #STYLEHERO

FALGUNI & SHANE PEACOCK Falguni & Shane Peacock have built a career in fashion by following their own set of rules. The secret of their success is the unique and unusual styling and attention to detail they give to each design to create "luxury". "We enjoy the challenge and the process that goes into creating each and every finished product. It's the minute aspects and the small unexpected twists that flavor a garment that makes it unique. A dress must make, in an instant, a statement without the help of accessories."

From my notes: Definitely STATEMENT pieces… few accessories required. So much detail to look at all at one moment...OVERWHELMING. Individually to take in would be more digestible. HOWEVER I love that they have set their own rules and  are not letting anyone dilute them. #MBFW #NYFW #FALGUNISHANEPEACOCK #SS12 #STYLEHERO

HELEN YARMAK Russian designer and fashion week veteran, Helen Yarmak, is a designer whose love for luxury and elegance has defined her collections. Her work with furs, accentuated with dark colors and attention to detail has garnered her much praise and has established her brand for years to come.
From my notes: Yarmak threw us a curveball, presenting clean playful t-shirt and tank dresses in “summer candy” colors. Topped off with fancifully fun furs. #MBFW #NYFW #HELENYARMAK #SS12 #STYLEHERO

EMERSON In her MBFW debut collection, Jackie Fraser-Swan, is determined to maintain her edgy, yet classic style. The Emerson brand is further making its way into the limelight by being added to Harper's Bazaar's "the freshman class" list. I sat with Jackie's husband, mother and two daughters, they are so proud of the result of her debut SS12 Collection.
From my notes: Debuting her street style collection in shades of asphalt, smoke, taupe with pops of royal. I want to be able to see a single inspiration, or story, other than the textile and palette. It is Jackie's first show, so I expect it all to shake out by her FW12 collection. #MBFW #NYFW #EMERSON #SS12 #STYLEHERO

GENERAL IDEA Up and coming menswear designer, Bumsuk Choi, is the artist behind the label that is General Idea. Les garcons de la plage- the boys of the beach, was the inspiration for this Spring-Summer ’12 collection. Imagine St. Tropez, high-society get away that blends luxury and leisure.
From my notes: Think French Riviera holiday, with bright orange jackets and knits, note the cable-knit shorts. Also including shades of turquoise, navy, olive and pops of red. #MBFW #NYFW #GENERALIDEA #SS12 #STYLEHERO

ANDREW BUCKLER British born designer, Andrew Buckler, celebrates his tenth anniversary as a menswear designer. Buckler's unique ability to spot trends on the horizon and incorporate them into his collections has bolstered his already established career as a leading men's fashion designer.
From my notes: Leather, denim, cottons in masculine-elegant silhouettes. Neutral tones of navy, black, khaki, gray and white. #MBFW #NYFW #ANDREWBUCKLER #SS12 #STYLEHERO

CHRISTIAN SIRIANO Making his seventh New York Fashion Week appearance. Siriano has made quite a name for himself over the years by working for the likes of Alexander McQueen, writing his first book, and having celebrity clients such as Alexis Bledel and Lady Gaga.
From my notes: “Up-town glamorous” with the expected “Red carpet” looks which he is known for. I am a push over for Siriano’s petals, pleats and “pholds”… I was not disappointed. The palette included shades of orange, lemon, stormy blue, beige or nude and a dash of cayenne. #MBFW #NYFW #CHRISTIANSIRIANO #SS12 #STYLEHERO

KATYA LEONOVICH Developed her techniques in couture design while in Paris, Rome and her hometown of Moscow. Katya’s couture bridal collection is edgy and dynamic in form, joined with the traditional concept of bridal wear; while still expressing her signature BEAUTIFUL GARBAGE concept: the embedding of fabrics such as gauzes, chiffons and silks with an assortment of materials including torn paper, bits of fur, pieces of aluminum, strands of cotton, feathers and fringes... an editorial dream.
From my notes: An EXPLOSIAN of color and texture creating a punch-drunk ethereal feel; a shift from previous collections of moodiness. #MBFW #NYFW #KATYALEONOVICH #SS12 #STYLEHERO

GEN ART | Fresh Faces in Fashion Celebrating their sixteenth year as THE leading platform for budding, new designers, Gen Art has more than proven their ability to find the new visionaries of the fashion industry. Previously featured artists include, Zac Posen, Rebecca Taylor, and LuLu Frost. This year, they are introducing Ann Lee, Baron Wells, and Osborn, among others. #MBFW #NYFW #GENART #SS12 #STYLEHERO

WILLIAM OKPO Designer sisters, Darlene and Lizzy Okpo, are the force behind the ethnic fusion label, William Okpo. Their "Crazy, Sexy, Cool," collection centered around the blending of their native Nigerian culture and the style that defines the west. The Okpo women hope to blend classic feminine style with a masculine edge. From my notes: Tailoring and material choices of these pieces speak to a summer lifestyle; while exuding hipness. #MBFW #NYFW #GENART #WILLIAMOKPO #SS12 #STYLEHERO

ACE AND JIG Cary Vaughan and Jenna Wilson, long time business partners and friends, are the creative energy that is Ace&Jig. After working together from 2004-2007 at LaROK, they left the multi-million dollar brand to start their families. Now, four years later, the two are creating together once again for their new and exciting label, Ace&Jig. From my notes: A youthful fun mix of textiles creating interest with out really over doing it.#MBFW #NYFW #GENART #ACEANDJIG #SS12 #STYLEHERO

SUNGHEE BANG Inspired by the mess of life, designer Sunghee Bang, has formed a creative collection of silks, jersey, and leather. In the hopes of becoming unrestricted and "untangled" from life, Bang's collection hoped to reveal the beauty in living in an organized mess.

From my notes: Sophisticated, edgy and  textiles of a supple hand. #MBFW #NYFW #GENART #SUNCHEEBANG #SS12 #STYLEHERO

JENNIFER CHUN After moving to Brooklyn and jump starting her career by attending the Pratt Institute in 1999, Jennifer Chen, is one artist who creates from the inspiration of her life experience. After working for prestigious design houses such as, Michael Kors and Derek Lam, Chen moved in the direction of establishing her own brand. This is her debut runway show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. From my notes: This  group was very fun to me, feeling inspired by the quirkiness of Marni, #MBFW #NYFW #GENART #JENNIFERCHUN #SS12 #STYLEHERO

ANN LEE After staying under the radar for the past year, Ann Lee is making a name for herself in a big way this season at the Gen Art Fresh Faces in Fashion Show. From my notes: Sheer, youthful with a super balance of color and neutrals. #MBFW #NYFW #GENART #ANNLEE #SS12 #STYLEHERO

EIGHTEENTH: Non-conformist and innovative designer, Alexa Galler, is the woman in charge of the label, Eighteenth. Entering into it's fifth season, Galler and her brand, have established themselves as a brand based on the idea that basics can be edgy and reinvented. From my notes: Sleeves seemed to be the focus for me, extra long, symmetrical and blousey.#MBFW #NYFW #GENART #EIGHTEENTH #SS12 #STYLEHERO

BARON WELLS Quirky, unique, thoughtful, and creative - just a few examples of the many words used to describe the brand, Baron Wells. Baron Wells, designed by Mads Madsen and Dominick Violini, is the offbeat approach to menswear. Originally called COTO and consisting of a cufflink collection starting in 2007, conceptual cufflinks soon turned to a full ready-to-wear menswear collection by 2010. From my notes: Nautical inspired, more by raining or seafaring weather than the obvious big ships. #MBFW #NYFW #GENART #BARONWELLS #SS12 #STYLEHERO

Gen Art featured accessories:
OSBORN Fashion forward and creative shoes are the defining quality of the Osborn label. Designed by Aaron and Carla Osborn, their Guatemalan, handmade shoes have been in featured in NYLON magazine. #MBFW #NYFW #GENART #OSBORN #SS12 #STYLEHERO

WOOL AND THE GANG Knit sweaters, hats, scarves, and tanks are the Wool and the Gang brand - but don't worry, these is not your grandmothers awkwardly knitted Christmas sweaters. Vibrant colors, a variety of styles make Wool and the Gang, fresh and accessible to all. #MBFW #NYFW #GENART #WOOLANDTHEGANG #SS12 #STYLEHERO

FALCONIERE Falconiere, by Juniper Rose, is the jewelry designer with the cutting edge pieces some only dream of inventing. With her attention to detail and boundary pushing urban flair, Falconiere jewelry speaks to the rule-breaker and daring fashionista in all of us. #MBFW #NYFW #GENART #FALCONIERE #SS12 #STYLEHERO

COLLINA STRADA Creating a fusion between old and new is handbag designer, Hillary Taymour, the visionary behind the brand Collina Strada. Designed with year round wearability in mind, Taymour’s handmade, eco-friendly pieces, speaks of an individual who is truly unique in this industry. #MBFW #NYFW #GENART #COLLINASTRADA #SS12 #STYLEHERO

Other shows continued...
LELA ROSE The collections are each conjured with a clear vision to create classic silhouettes with a whimsical artistry. Fall 2006 Rose launched her Wedding collection, Pairing unconventional fabrics and techniques; the Lela Rose signature trademark was born.
From my notes: Shades of khaki-gray, deep tangerine, rose, blush, crème, steel purples, rich moss and pewter blue. Mosaic prints and color blocking and lace. Inspiring collection, with a calculated balance of refinement and fun. #MBFW #NYFW #LELAROSE #SS12 #STYLEHERO

NAUTICA Established in 1983, Nautica has had the market cornered on men’s sportswear apparel. Creative director Chris Cox continues to offer expected, but pleasing, successful brand. From my notes: You could tell Cox was inspired by his recent vacation to Monterey. Hues of cream, yellow, coral and of course white and navy round out the playful palette. Mediums included technical fabrics, linen, chambray, cotton and even bags made from sailcloth. Always a staple. #MBFW #NYFW #SS12 #NAUTICA #SS12 #STYLEHERO

TADASHI SHOJI Japanese native and fashion week veteran, Tadashi Shoji, showed an interest in design and the fine arts from an early age. Now unrestricted from the confines of his hometown of Sandai, he has made quite the name for himself here in America. His work is now carried in over 4,000 department and specialty stores worldwide; such as Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdales, and Macy’s. From my notes:The inspiration was a flower garden. Beginning very more conceptual, dress shapes or layers in flower interoperations, even bumblebees were present. The transition into less obvious statement dresses with more subtle floral reminders in soft prints, or lace was elegant. #MBFW #NYFW #SS12 #TADASHISHOJI #SS12 #STYLEHERO

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